The opinion of many chefs is that most California Cabs are simply over the top, flaunting power for power’s sake and overwhelming every dish on the table. Crafted by winemaker Clay Mauritson and sommelier Richard Luftig, Pied à Terre bucks that trend. It’s a wine to complement food rather than compete with it, favoring harmony over brute force, balance over brawn. Yes, it’s bold and robust. But it will make a make a meal rather than rule it.