John House and Ksenija Kostic didn’t leave their jobs at Chehalem Winery to craft cult wines. But when you traverse some of the most remote districts of Oregon in search of distinctive, and often quite marginal, white wine vineyards; when you produce wines of crystalline purity on a truly nano scale; and when the resulting wines have the clarity to express some seriously eye-popping terroir and minerality; well, you’re bound to attract at least the hint of a cultish aura.
Since that first summer in 2011, scouring obscure and often forgotten vineyards from the Willamette to the Columbia Gorge to the Rogue Valley, House and Kostic have continued to focus on just four sites, teasing the terroir from low-yielding vines and letting the vineyards speak for themselves. Each wine evokes a sense of place and time, each has the lift and sinewy vigor that comes with some genuinely fearless acidity, and each, unsurprisingly, is very limited.
Ovum “Deep Water” Riesling, Dundee Hills
Ovum “Off the Grid” Riesling, Rogue Valley
Ovum “Memorista” Riesling, Dundee Hills
Ovum “In the Dark” Gewurztraminer, Rogue Valley
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