Category Archives: Burgundy

Morgan Truchetet, Nuits St-Georges

Morgan and Julie Truchetet took over their father’s domaine in 2019, becoming the 6th generation to work this small estate in Prémeaux-Prissy. In addition to making wine with his viticulturalist sister, Morgan also produces a small collection of his own eponymous cuvées, each showcasing particular terroirs to which he has a special attachment. Morgan’s vineyards are all in the process of organic conversion, plowing is by horse, and the vines are all hand-harvested. The winery work is all natural, with indigenous yeasts, gravity-fed transfers, and minimal use of sulfur.

Core Wines…

Morgan Truchetet Hautes Côtes de Nuits Rouge “La Montagne

Morgan Truchetet Nuits-Saint-George “Les Topons”

Chapuis & Chapuis, Ladoix

Brothers Romaine and Jean-Guillaume Chapuis come from a long line of vignerons in Aloxe-Corton and grew up among the vines there on the family domaine. Romaine honed his skills working at a number of estates around the world, most notably with Philippe Pacalet, then returned to Burgundy to found his own domaine with brother Jean-Guillaume in 2009. The brothers don’t own any vines themselves, but lease a number of tiny plots in the region, doing all their own farming (organic, of course), everything from pruning to harvest. The parcels and yields are minute, and the cuvées are necessarily mini to microscopic. As small as the quantities are, the quality is undeniable. As Ian Cauble commented, “My advice? Commit the producer to memory and hoard as much of today’s sensational, small-batch burgundy as humanly possible.”

Core Wines…

These wines are generally limited. Please inquire for current availability.

Meix-Foulot, Mercurey

The Domaine du Meix-Foulot has been in the hands of the de Launay family for multiple generations. Paul de Launay took the reins during the 1960s; his daughter Agnes joined the domaine and is now solely responsible for this exceptionally beautiful and historic estate. This is one of the most picturesque of Burgundian domaines, situated high on a hill overlooking the entirety of Mercurey and surrounded by the gently sloping vineyards of the estate. Meix-Foulot is also one of the most important domaines in Mercurey, in terms both of size and excellence, with an imposing collection of vineyards that capture the full range of this under-appreciated appellation.There are 20 hectares of vineyards, all sited within the confines of Mercurey. Ninety percent of the vines are planted to Pinot Noir, with the remainder is planted to Chardonnay.

Core Wines…

Domaine du Meix-Foulot Mercurey Rouge 1er Cru

Domaine du Meix-Foulot Mercurey 1er Cru “Les Veleys”

Jérôme Chezeaux, Prémeaux

Jérôme Chezeaux is based in Prémeaux-Prissey just south of Nuits Saint Georges and owns about 12 hectares of vineyards, some of which were brought into play from the family holdings of his wife, Pierrette. The vineyards, impeccably tended according to the principles of “lutte raisonnée”, are scattered throughout the villages of Prémeaux, Nuits Saint Georges, Vougeot and Vosne Romanée and include a series of the most elite lieux-dits in the zone.

Chezeaux strictly follows the most traditional of methods in the cellar being firmly “non-interventionist”. The purity of his wines is revelatory and there is an understated majesty to every offering. After a manual harvest, the grapes undergo a cold maceration of 3 to 4 days and the entire cuvaison extends for approximately three weeks. During that time rémontage and pigèage are practiced; the extent to which both techniques are used depends on the structure of the vintage. Indigenous yeasts are used exclusively and malolactic fermentation occurs in small oak barrels during the extended elevage. Each year between a quarter and one-third of the barrels are replaced which means that the wines are exposed at most to 30% new oak. The wines are bottled without filtration between 18 to 24 months after harvest.

Core Wines…

These wines are generally limited. Please inquire.

Jean-Marc Pillot, Chassagne

Jean-Marc Pillot is the fourth generation of his branch of the Pillot family to tend vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet. He joined his father, Jean, in 1985 to learn the craft of “vigneron”. After six years of working side-by-side, Jean-Marc assumed the direction of the domaine in 1991 with the assistance of his wife, Nadine, and his sister, Beatrice. Of course, his father, Jean, remains by his side rendering advice and valuable assistance in the vineyards (often while he is tending the garden in back of the chai!). Jean-Marc has instituted several changes at the estate, the most prominent of which is the construction of a new cave. Of equal importance, Jean-Marc expanded the amount of vineyards under cultivation and has made subtle modifications in vinification and elevage to place his own “mark” on this estate which now covers approximately fifteen hectares with an annual production of, more or less, 60,000 bottles. The domaine is dominated by its production of white wines but there are important cuvées of red wine produced here as well. Vineyard holdings are spread throughout the village of Chassagne with subsidiary parcels in Puligny, Santenay, Meursault and Remigny (to the south). This breadth of real estate enables the Pillot family to produce a stunning range of wines that put on brilliant display the intricacies of terroir in this southern tier of the Cote de Beaune. The estate’s jewels are its premier crus blancs (Baudines, Chenevottes, Macherelles, Vergers, Morgeot, Caillerets, La Maltroie and Champs Gain) and premier cru rouges (Macherelles, Morgeot, Clos St.Jean), all within the boundaries of Chassagne Montrachet. However, one should not overlook several gems that come from less exalted appellations, such as the Bourgogne Blanc “Grands Champs”, the Bourgogne Rouge “Grandes Terres”, and the expressive Santenay Rouge “Champs Claude”; and, of course, there are the fine village wines in both white and red from Chassagne. Jean-Marc also accesses grapes in very limited quantities from interesting appellations like his Montagny 1er Cru “Les Gouresses” and Saint Romain Blanc “La Perriere”.

Core Wines…

Pillot Bourgogne Blanc “Les Grands Champs”

Pillot Chassagne Montrachet Rouge “Mes Vieilles Vignes”

Jean-Marc Morey, Chassagne

Jean-Marc Morey favors traditional vinification methods. He uses only wild yeast. For his white wines, the juice goes straight from the press into barrel for fermentation. With the gentler pneumatic press, he does not need to let the must decant to remove excessive particulate matter before fermentation. After fermentation, the wine rests on its lees and benefits from bâtonnage during its aging. His Pinot Noir is destemmed before going into cement tanks for fermentation and maceration. The red wines are also allowed to age on their lees while undergoing malolactic and further aging in barrel, adding complexity and roundness to the wine. Only about one quarter new oak is used and sometimes less. For Jean-Marc Morey oak is a necessary part of the “elevage” but it is an element that should never overwhelm the fruit or the “terroir”. The white wines are bottled the year immediately prior to the succeeding harvest and the reds spend an additional six months in barrel before being bottled in the late winter/early spring of the 2nd year after harvest.

Core Wines…

Jean Marc has now retired, and only a scant number of bottles of his wine remains. Please inquire for availability.

Jean Manciat, Mâcon

Some of the Mâconnais coops that dominate the American marketplace produce millions of bottles. In contrast, Jean Manciat’s vineyards can be toured on foot in a few minutes (5.5 hectares). When Manciat took over his family estate, he replanted extensively but kept as many of the old vines as possible. All the picking at this estate is done by hand – a tradition totally lost here except at the best Mâcon estates. Jean Manciat prunes his Chardonnay vines in the Côte d’Or fashion (taille Guyot), leaving a shorter cane that is less productive. Manciat experiments with various agricultural techniques, such as sowing particular varieties of grass between rows, to eliminate the use of herbicides and alleviate soil erosion. Mâcon-Charnay Franclieu is made in stainless-steel vats to express the fruity, floral aromas and flinty minerality that characterize the best Chardonnay in the region. A stony yellow apple and citrus nose and palate with richness and intensity. Minerality that comes forth as it opens in the glass.

Core Wines…

Manciat Mâcon-Charnay “Franclieu”

Jean Chauvenet, Nuits St-Georges

With no less than seven premier crus complemented by serious Bourgogne Rouge and Villages-level cuvées, the comprehensive scope of Jean Chauvenet’s vineyard holdings over his 9.5 hectares is among the greatest in the appellation. The wines of Nuits-Saint-Georges are not soft in their youth, but that is the true character of the terroir: robust tannins, dark fruit, and a mineral infusion from the iron-inflected soils that, taken together, can only come from this singular district. The estate’s holdings are farmed with the underlying objective of achieving certification as an organic grower in the coming years. Harvest is manual.Vinification is classic with 100% destemming and a brief period of cold maceration followed by two to three weeks of cuvaison, the length of which is determined by the appellation and the inherent structure of each wine. A decanting follows and then the wine is moved into small barrels where the malolactic occurs. An elevage of about 18 months occurs and the wines are bottled without fining or filtration.

Core Wines…

These wines are generally limited. Please inquire.

Jean & Sébastien Dauvissat, Chablis

Jean Dauvissat, and his son Sébastien, are the most recent in an extended line of the Dauvissat family that has been in possession of this notable domaine since 1899. The cave is positioned under the family house which dates from the 17th century. The domaine encompasses slightly less than 10 hectares of vineyards. The Grand Cru vineyards are south-facing; the 1er Cru vineyards have a full southeast exposure; and the village property faces northwest. All are hillside sites with an “argilo-calcaire” soil composition heavily marked by small stones that provide for excellent drainage. Of course, the entire vineyard surface is underlain by the Kimmeridgian limestone that makes Chablis one of the most unique wine-producing areas in the world.

Core Wines…

Dauvissat Chablis St. Pierre

Domaine Hubert Lignier

The Domaine Hubert Lignier is known for the concentration, depth and structure of their wines. Hubert’s son, Laurent, is the next generation of this proud estate and is following his father’s traditional practices to ensure the treasures coming from the family’s impressive vineyard holdings continue to exhibit the best of their appellations. The domaine owns 8.30 hectares principally in the villages of Morey Saint Denis (where their home and the cellars are located), Gevrey Chambertin and Chambolle Musigny. Recently, the Ligniers have expanded their holdings to include parcels in the appellations of Nuits Saint Georges and Pommard. The Ligniers follow the principles of “lutte raisonnée” (sensible combat) in their viticulture, using only organic compost when necessary and tilling the vineyard to obviate the use of herbicides. The thin, clay and limestone soil on the slopes is not conducive to vigorous growth, limiting the crop naturally. Sélection massale is the only method used to propagate vines, a tradition that gives an extra touch of complexity and character to the resulting wines. Traditional vinification practices are the core of their work: grapes are destemmed and fermentation takes place in open-top cement tanks that allow manual pigéage. Only natural yeasts are used. Laurent uses an extended cold soak maceration period prior to fermentation to allow greater extraction (contrary to his father who believes that the best extraction takes place during the alcoholic fermentation). Fermentation is rather long and generally lasts 15 to 20 days following the 5-day cold soak. The use of new oak for the élevage is carefully restrained. The wines of the village appellations usually spend 18 months in barrel while the Premier and Grand Crus remain in cask for 20 to 24 months before being bottled, all without fining or filtration.

Core Wines…

These wines are very limited. Please inquire.